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Your volume pedal is something you can't do without.
They go bad once in awhile, and somebody has to fix it. It might
as well be you. The most common cause of malfunction is that the
potentiometer gets static sounding, which is nothing more than dirt,
or deterioration of the graphite inside it. You can't clean one
up so forget that. You can't save it no matter how cheap you may
be. You will have to change out the pot.
This is not so bad, but it looks hard if you have
never done it. The trick is in knowing how to take the pedal apart
and get it back together just like you took it apart. Most pedals
are alike but for a few screws here and there. Here is an idea of
what to do.
The first thing is to get the bottom off so you can
see what needs to move. Get a set of Allen wrenches and a 1/2 inch
open end wrench ready. You will have to loosen the screw up on the
pedestal that holds the string wrapped around the brass barrel on
the pot. This is usually just a regular flathead screw driver slot.
Once you have a little slack in the string turn the
brass barrel on the pot until you can see the little black Allen
screw in it. Loosen this Allen screw a bit until you can slide the
barrel off of the shaft on the pot. You won't have to undo the string,
leave it
wrapped just like it is on the barrel. This way you
won't forget how it was wound on the barrel. If you get it all wrong
your volume pedal will work backwards.
With the brass barrel loose and off of the shaft,
and the string still wrapped nicely like it was, use your 1/2 inch
wrench to loosen the nut holding the pot on its mount. You can lay
the brass barrel down in the pedal carefully,, leaving both hands
free to do this job. Have your new potentiometer ready to go back
in the exact same spot.
Take each wire off the old pot with a soldering iron
one at a time and put them on the new pot as you take each one off.
This way you won't forget where each wire went. There are only three
wires. You could easily make a drawing of where each one goes.
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Now comes the fun part. Install the pot back on the
mount just like the other one w as. Rotate the shaft all the way
to "LEFT" with the shaft pointing at you. Slip the brass barrel
back on the shaft, but don't tighten anything yet. Push the back
of the pedal all the way down, towards the back like it was going
to be in ""Off" position. This raises the front of the pedal up
high, right? Make sure the shaft stays rotated all the way to left,
tighten the string around the brass barrel making sure you haven't
let it come loose one wrap. Pull the string tight
and set it with the screw on the pedestal. Now tighten the Allen
screw on the brass barrel making sure that as the pedal is all the
way off, that the shaft is also rotated to the left all the way.
Work the pedal up and down checking to see if the
shaft rotates and the string is working all the way up and down
through the pedal travel.
If you did it wrong you will see what went afoul.
You may need to loosen the barrel and reset it to get more travel
in the pedal, or you may need to tighten the string a little. Look
at the pictures here if you have any doubt. About the only
thing that can happen is that you lose that string and get it back
on the barrel wrong. Just watch that you see how the string comes
up on the left side, wraps around the barrel once, then wraps around
the set screw,once, and then back the other way coming out on the
left side again to the pedestal and the set screw for the string.
Play with it, you'll get it back right. If you have fingers like
wagon tongues you may need to enlist the help of your wife.
Only use a 500K, J taper pot. If you use any other
kind you won't like what you get. I keep one in my seat all the
time just for this very fun filled occasion.
Nobody likes to do this job. It takes a little time,
and you have to be careful. But you can do it. You don't need to
be a rocket scientist. You have to do it.
Footnote by John Fabian of Carter
Steel Guitars: This article appeared in the November 1991
issue of The Pedal Rod, a Jeffran College Newsletter. Jeff
Newman was kind enough to allow us to use the article on The
Steel Guitar Information Resource web site.
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